![]() ![]() I do not know if all aftermarket motors have the cap on the same wire. Note that your shaker motor might be wired differently, so it will be necessary to check it. So either the cap on the motor needs to be moved, or the wires need to be switched (is there a backwards / forward direction to these motors)? The cap should be on the power supply - the solid yellow wire. The yellow-white wire is the control wire. The blue wire is connected through the board to the brown-white wire on the circuit board, which is connected to the yellow-white wire in the pin. If wired as you did above, my shaker has the capacitor on the blue wire from the motor. * It maybe necessary to switch either the cap on the motor, or the leads. However, leaving the diode in there might add some protection to the 12V circuit, so I left it in. * The diode is also in series with the motor. I soldered a jumper on the solder side of the board, then added a label to the top on the resistor. However, the resistor should be jumped in order to get full power to the motor. To install the board, follow the instructions above. * However, the board has a 2.5A fuse built in which might be nice to keep. * One can connect the shaker directly to the connector without a problem. Leaving the board in place will cause the motor to run on less than its rated 12V. JJP pins (at least WOZ and Pirates) have 12V running to the shaker. * That board that comes with the shaker is there for 20V games. This same technique could be used on other JJP pins. Scroll down to the shaker motor test and give it a shot. Turn on your game, go into the menu system and go to coil tests. Double check to make sure your red/white matches up with the yellow wire in the game by the tilt bob and the brown/white matches up with the yellow/brown. Insert the wires into your re-used (or new) 3 position connector shell as shown. If you have to cut them then make sure you cut the red/white off right at the connector. ![]() Pinball Life has them so you can order one with your shaker motor kit. 093" pin extractor then you will need a new 3 pin connector. 093" pin extractor remove the pin from the 2-position and 3-position connectors. The brown/white wire is WAY too long and will need to be cut shorter. The red/white wire is the positive "+" wire and the brown/white wire is the ground "-" wire that goes to the driver board. Next, take a look at the wiring harness that comes with the shaker motor kit. If you want to hold off on this step until you get the wiring harness modified later then that works too. I chose a place that made for neat wiring but wasn't too far away from the motor or the shaker motor connector and for the wiring harness from the game to the motor board. Now that you have that out of the way, you can mount the little fuse/resistor board for the shaker. On my game the T-Nuts were already installed in the cabinet from the factory You can to this job without the Molex pin extractor but if you use one then you can reuse the 3-pin connector shell.įirst, mount the shaker motor and cover like any other game. It literally only took me 15 minutes to do this. I would hazard a guess that they are (will be) but you will have to check into that yourself. I have NO idea if things are different on later production games or if the wire colors, etc, are the same on The Hobbit or if they will be the same on Dialed In. I didn't really need them, but I figured someone in the future might.ĭisclaimer: I did this on an early production WoZ standard. I had also seen some posts on the forum where people had posted they had done it, but there weren't a whole of instructions or anything. Being the cheap ass I generally am, I didn't want to pay the price that JJP wanted for a shaker motor when I knew that the Stern SAM unit that Pinball Life sells would work perfectly well. ![]()
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